From Seascapes to City Escapes – A Long Weekend in Dunedin
From the city to the seaside, Ōtepoti Dunedin is scenic in all seasons no matter the environment you find yourself in. From revived heritage buildings that have been refitted into carefree cafés to expeditions through museums or onto the wild beaches of the peninsula, every inch is worth exploring when you visit, whether it’s for an event or a city break.
Tucked down the bottom of the country in the southern corner of the South Island, you’d be forgiven for not knowing one of Aotearoa’s most breathtaking locations is a short drive from central Dunedin. Often overlooked, the Otago Peninsula/Muaūpoko is truly wondrous. A statement said without an ounce of hyperbole. Home to diverse, rare wildlife as well as historic relics, from gun emplacements to grand estates that harken back to Dunedin’s past, the peninsula showcases why Dunedin is both the Heritage and Wildlife Capital of New Zealand.
Whether you take the low road that follows the tranquil harbour through bay villages or the high road up its winding spine, complete with 360-degree vistas, your journey will be a scenic one.
The high road takes in pristine panoramas of the city, the Otago Harbour below and the folds of the rural hills which roll to meet the sea, forming sumptuous sandy shores or dramatic cliffs. You can try, but there isn’t a bad angle to be found of this harbourside hero.
Day 1: Bay Dreams
Wandering the waterfront is your first option for traversing the peninsula. The Otago Harbour Path is a 53 km shared cycle and walking path that loops and frames the water all the way from Port Chalmers to Portobello. It mirrors the main road which hugs the harbour and meanders past yacht clubs, whimsical boat sheds and quaint villages.
Macandrew Bay is home to the glorious Glenfalloch Gardens , which also has a café on-site. Venturing further into the settlement reveals a small bay beach with shops, The Duck café and Bellamys Gallery , all worth exploring. The route weaves between bays including Broad Bay, which is home to Fletcher House , New Zealand’s only fully restored and furnished Edwardian villa.
Portobello comes next along its namesake road. It’s from here that you can catch the Port to Port Ferry to get to Port Chalmers on the other side of the water, closing the harbour loop. The small port village is looking forward to the return of the iconic Port Chalmers Seafood Festival in September after being on hiatus for several years.
Before you near the end of the headland of the peninsula you’ll find Harington Point. Book a Monarch Wildlife Cruise , which departs from Wellers Rock, and go on a seafaring safari. Sit back and enjoy the scenery as the cruise explores the stunningly beautiful and rugged coastline near the entrance of the Otago Harbour. Keep a lookout for native marine birds, sea lions, seals, penguins, potentially a northern royal albatross or two and the occasional dolphin.
Also in Harington Point is Penguin Place , a private conservation reserve that looks after the endangered and rare yellow-eyed penguin (hoiho). Their 90-minute tour takes you through their rehabilitation facility and the nearby reserve to go penguin spotting. Proceeds from many of Dunedin’s wildlife tours help fund conservation efforts.nd forests, together with spectacular coastal cliffs, Pegasus Bay and Banks Peninsula in the distance.
Head Over Hills
The drive from the centre of Dunedin out to the tip of Taiaroa Head is not only stunning, but also only about 50 minutes by car.
Taiaroa Head is an almost perfect mix of Dunedin’s best characteristics: a collection of heritage artefacts; involvement from mana whenua, the telling of their histories, to caretaking and reviving the land; to rare wildlife and jaw-dropping scenery.
As the road climbs from Harington Point up to the headland, before reaching the summit of the hill, there is a gravel nook at the side of the road for parking that is a good place to stop and access the Harington Point Gun Emplacements . These concrete fortifications date back to the 1890s following concerns that the Russian Empire might invade. The emplacements have taken on a modern art look now, decorated with confection-coloured graffiti. A unique blend of heritage, art and oceanic views.
Past the emplacements you’ll finally wind down to the headland, famous for being home to the only mainland breeding colony of Northern royal albatross (toroa) . These incredible birds have a wingspan of about 2.7–3 metres.
Though amazing when they take to the sky, the unique aspect of the Royal Albatross Centre is the ground activity, which you cannot access anywhere else in the world. After navigating the southern oceans for months, toroa return here to breed the next generation. The only other places they nest are the Chatham Islands or New Zealand’s Subantarctic Islands.
The Royal Albatross Centre takes guided tours where you can view the nesting sites. Chicks are hatched from the end of January to early February. The centre is also home to a secret, Fort Taiaroa . Tours can be taken of the fort, which was also established to counter a potential Russian invasion. You can explore the underground tunnels and find the Armstrong Disappearing Gun in its original placement and learn the military history of the area.
After you’ve had your fix of fluffy albatross chicks you can continue up the road for something slightly more adventurous. Natures Wonders invites you onto their private farmland to tour the coastline and trails by 8-wheel-drive all-terrain Argo. The exhilarating ride takes you to see habitats of penguins and New Zealand fur seals, while the views from Hautai Hill are described as 720 degrees, because you’ll look twice.
As the sun begins to set over the hills to the west of the city, projecting the last of the day’s rays over the peninsula, venture down to Pilots Beach, at the foot of Taiaroa Head for the daily march of the penguins. Book the evening tour with Blue Penguins Pukekura and watch from the viewing platform as rafts of blue penguins (kororā) return to their nests at dusk after spending their day at sea.
You can spend the night on the peninsula at a range of accommodation from holiday parks for campervans to stunning, remote retreats with marine views. You can even stay at the castle or the luxurious Camp Estate nearby.
Day 2: Take the High Road
Although you can loop the Otago Peninsula in a day, there is so much to do it’s recommended that you spend a couple of days exploring this unique part of the world.
If you’ve spent a day doing the harbour road, then your second day needs to include the peninsula high road. Start on Highcliff Road, which rises high above the harbour, and leads up the ridge of the peninsula to Larnach Castle, New Zealand’s only authentic castle. Pay to enter the castle and explore one of Dunedin’s treasured heritage icons. The grounds of the castle are equally stunning and high tea can be experienced in the ballroom.
The next stop you cannot miss shares its name with a nearby distillery. Follow Sandymount Road past the historic, turret-looking Lime Kilns that were built in the 1860s, all the way down to a gravel car park. Opposite the parking is a loop track that will take you to the incredible Sandymount Viewpoint.
Further along the winding high roads past Hoopers Inlet is Okia Reserve. The reserve has a distinctly rural look but rising out of the landscape is a unique geographic wonder, the Okia Pyramids. These are natural volcanic formations that are made of columnar basalt. The smaller of the pyramids is even able to be climbed and is a great photo op.
Beyond the reserve is Victory Beach, named for the shipwreck of the SS Victory whose remains can still be seen poking out of the surf.
Lights, Camera, Action!
This side of the Otago Peninsula is also one of the best spots to go stargazing and aurora hunting. Horizon Tours takes the Southern Skies Stargazing tour where you examine celestial features, while your guide shares stories and waiata on how Māori viewed the night sky.
Hoopers Inlet and Sandfly Bay are some of the best locations to head to at night with your camera. The University of Otago has an aurora alert webpage that monitors and predicts the levels of electromagnetic activity in the area. When levels are high enough and the skies are clear, you should be able to capture the Southern Lights (Aurora Australis) dancing above.
If you’re still keen on lights after that, follow the harbour road back into the city, which provides a different but equally spectacular drive as it does during the day. The lights of the city reflect on the water, and harbour beacons blink in green and red like Christmastime.
Day 3: Explore the City
After two days of exploration in one of the most stunning environments in Aotearoa, finish your stay by exploring the city. Dunedin’s Gothic and Edwardian architecture rises in spires and intricate masonry above the city, while its walls take a more modern feel after being adorned with whimsical street art. Both can be explored during the Midwinter Carnival (23–24 June) which kicks off on the grounds of Dunedin’s First Church.
The up-and-coming laneway of No Name Alley is worth a visit and is home to modern apothecary Wild Dispensary and microbrewer Steamer Basin. No8 Distillery will also be moving to the neighbourhood at some point this year.
Dunedin has an emerging craft beer and distillery scene with several brewers and distillers moving their part-time passion projects into the city, establishing new careers and trendy spots for a cheeky after-work tipple or two.
Craft breweries worth checking out are Arc Brewing Co ., just north of the city, Noisy Brewing Co . which is opposite the majestic Dunedin Railway Station , and DogStar Brew Lab has moved into its new home at Moons, in Princes Street.
If you’re in town for the FIFA Women’s World Cup 2023 then Emerson’s is conveniently located right next to the stadium ready and waiting for your pre- or post-game sip. Dunedin is the only South Island host city for the tournament and it will be buzzing. Join the spectacle of this once-in-a-lifetime elite event where stars from all over the world will be in the south. Witnessing the largest sporting event in New Zealand’s history is a great excuse to take some time off work and take the family to see some world-class athletes.
For more information on things to do in Dunedin, visit Dunedinnz.com
